Make a weighted door stop that is weather friendly using a washable fabric and Poly-Pellets and Polyfil fiberfill on the inside. We live in a older home and the doors do not have springs and need to be held open when carrying items inside. The weather does not always cooperate so I needed the door stop to be washable and also not too heavy and something that would not scratch the floor. We used a rock for a little while but it was starting to leave marks.
The decorative door stop also doubles as a table cloth holder when we eat outside on the back patio. I wanted a fabric that was pretty and durable so I chose a printed canvas. The pattern I made on my own and will share a printable version with you too.
Materials use for Door Stop:
- Canvas fabric
- twill tape or ribbon
- Crafter’s Choice fiberfill stuffing
- Sewing machine or needle and thread.
- Straight pins optional
Instructions for Door Stop:
- Cut 4 panels of fabric to the same shape. I used a gothic arch that was hand drawn.
- Place two panels wrong sides together and sew on side from top to bottom. Repeat for next two panels. Pin if needed
- Place the newly sewn panels wrong side together and pin the twill tape at the top.
- Sew the two panels together along both sides.
- Measure the bottom opening and cut a piece of fabric slightly bigger than needed.
- Turn piece wrong side out and pin the bottom piece of fabric to 3 of the 4 sides.
- Stuff the top two thirds or more with Polyfil. Sew opening almost closed. Leave an opening large enough for a funnel tip.
- Pour in PolyPellets and sew opening closed.
Now you have a weather friendly door stop that can be use all year long and looks pretty while you are using it.
A placemat pillow is one of the quickest and easiest ways to make a pillow. I love finding fancy placemats and turning them into pillows. If I purchased embroidered fabric the pillows would be very expensive to make. I picked up a 4 pack of place mats on clearance for $5 and I even had a 20% off coupon bringing the cost down to one dollar a piece for the embroidered seahorses. I could have left them as rectangles but I wanted them as small accent pillows to go in front of my other pillows. The seahorse pillows will be my summer pillows.
Materials to make a placemat pillow:
- fabric for backing
- Polyfil Fiberfill for stuffing
- Scissors or rotary cutter, ruler and mat
- Sewing machine and coordinating thread
- Iron and ironing board
- Bamboo skewer or wooden spoon
Instructions to make a placemat pillow:
- Decide on the size and shape you want your pillow. I went with squares and trimmed the fronts of the placemats down to 11×11 squares.
- Cut a piece of fabric for the back to the same size as the front of the pillow.
- Place right sides of fabric together and pin around the pair leaving a small opening to add in the Polyfil.
- Sew around 3 of the four sides completely and then make sure you leave the opening on the 4th side for stuffing.
- Trim off any excess fabric and clip the corners at an angle. This will give you better corners when you turn the fabric right side out.
- Turn the pillow right side out. Iron the pillow front and back. I like to iron the opening where the stuffing is going so it has a crisp edge and is easier to sew closed.
- Stuff the pillow with the Polyfil. Use the skewers to push the filling into the corners.
- Pin the opening closed and use a whip stitches or a straight stitch to close the opening.
Sit back relax and enjoy your placemat pillow. No one will know it started out as a placemat unless you tell them what a genius you are.
A Mid Century Modern Foot Stool DIY using geometric fabric that is a good Saturday afternoon project. This was the first piece I have ever made that was fitted and round. Normally if I make something round I make it my way and how ever it turns out is how it was meant to be. But this piece required good measurements and accurate sewing. I was surprised at how well it turned out for my first piece and all it took was a learning to baste first and take my time. I have never machine basted before and now I don’t know why I have never done it before. It seriously made everything easier and when I did make mistake, because we all know I made a few, it was so much easier to rip out.
Materials for a Foot Stool DIY:
- 3/4 yard Robert Kaufman Canvas
- 3/4 yard Robert Kaufman Geo Pop fabric
- Rope Trim
- Sewing Machine and thread
- Serger (optional)
- Zipper Foot
- Seam Ripper (optional)
- staple gun
- flat head screwdriver or staple lifter (optional)
- Power Drill with Phillips Head bit
- Wood disk and wood feet ( Home Depot)
- Paint brush and DecoArt Paint
Instructions for Foot Stool DIY:
- Place the cushion in the centre of the fabric, and trace the circle 2 inches bigger than needed. I surged the edge but you do not have to.
- Cut your rope trim to size and add an extra two inches.
Better to have more than enough than to cut it too close. Line up its raw edge along the raw edge of the top panel. You will be attaching it to the right side of the fabric. Start sewing about 2” down from the start of the piping.
- Pin the two together and set your machine to baste stitch. At this point, you are just basting, so there is no need to get too close to the cord.
- Cut fabric for side panel and surge one edge. Again, you do not have to surge the edge but I do.
- Line up the side panel with the edge of the top panel. Start sewing with a basting stitch about 2” down from the top. You will be sewing a 5/8” seam. This will hide the basting stitches from earlier.
- When you’ve sewn around the perimeter, remove the pieces from the machine and line up the edges for a custom fit. Do this by marking a straight line on both ends of the panel where they should be sewn together and pin them in place. (Make a test fit as shown in the image below.)
- The zipper foot allows you to get close to the piping-use a regular stitch to sew the pieces together.
- Trim off the excess seam allowance, iron open, and sew along the piped edge to ensure that it’s completely closed
- Place the fabric over the cushion. Pull taught but do not distort the shape. Place the wood base on top of the cushion. Pull fabric up over edge firmly but not so much you pull the pattern out of shape. Place three staples approximately two inches from outside edge.
- Place three more staples on the opposite side of the first three then do the same on the left side and the right side
- Pull firmly on the unstapled sections, smoothing as you go and staple in place after one section is stapled and smooth.
- Repeat step 11 until all the fabric is smooth and stapled into place. If you make any errors remove the stapled area and rework.
- Cut off excess fabric up to about 1/2′ from staples
- Add the brackets for the feet and then add the feet. You can add the brackets before or after you staple the fabric. Your choice.
- I painted my feet the day before I started the project and coated it with polyurethane to protect it from chipping. How you finish the feet is your choice.
Now that you have read the Foot Stool DIY I hope you are ready to make your own. You can also check out this project too. It is another version of the tuffet.
Personalize your home with a family name pallet sign. This rustic sign shows off your surname in style with a budget-friendly image transfer technique. Use a sophisticated fancy font or a basic font to create different looks. If you are not comfortable with power tools you can ask the person at the lumber counter to cut it for you or a friend. Take proper precautions when working with power tools. If you are unsure ask for help. If you want use a different base color stick to light or pastel colors.
Supplies for pallet sign:
- Wooden pallet or plaque, 18”x7-1/2”, two
- White computer paper
- Hanger of choice
- Computer, photo editing software, inkjet printer
- DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paints: Snow White, Lamp Black, Dura Clear Exterior or Interior Poly Varnish, DecoPage
- Glue gun and glue sticks, ruler, pencil, black marker, paintbrush, sanding block, soft cloth, wax candle, scissors, foam brush, hand towel, newspaper (to cover work surface)
Instructions for pallet sign:
Use ruler and pencil to mark off six 2-1/2”x7-1/2” pieces on one wooden pallet. Use saw to cut pieces apart. Sand wooden pieces thoroughly and wipe with soft cloth.
Paint large plaque and small plaque pieces Lamp Black. Let dry. Randomly rub candle across surface of small plaque pieces. Paint small plaque pieces Snow White. Lightly sand surface to reveal distressed areas.
Arrange small plaque pieces on top of larger plaque. Adhere pieces in place using hot glue. Let cool.
Use computer and photo editing software to type letters for surname. Make sure letters are flipped horizontally and sized appropriately before printing in font of choice. (Note: Designer used Microsoft Paint to type letters and inserted as image into Word document in “Stencil” font.) Repeat process for “EST” and year in desired font and size. Print name, year, and “EST” on computer paper using inkjet printer.
Cut out printed words and year with scissors; position right side down on surface of smaller plaque pieces. Use foam brush and découpage medium to coat pieces thoroughly. Let dry overnight if possible.
Wet small portion of hand towel with water. Starting at one corner of plaque, gently rub away paper, taking care not to rub off transferred images. Wipe off any excess paper.
Attach hangar of choice onto back of plaque. Apply sealer if the piece will be exposed to the elements.
Make a free motion pinwheel pillow. Gather up your fabric scraps and dive into your button stash to create a fun, funky pillow for cheerful porch décor. Give any seat in your home a bold pop of color and style with this fun technique. It truly is a great stash buster.
Materials and tools for pinwheel pillow:
Basic Supplies for the pinwheel pillow:
- scissors, fabric marking pen, pencil, sewing needle, iron and pressing surface
Instructions for pinwheel pillow:
Use rotary cutter and mat to cut two 17”x13” rectangles from wool felt.
For templates, use circle cutter to cut circles measuring 3”, 2-1/2”, 1-1/2”, and 1” from cardstock scraps.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions to apply fusible webbing onto fabric scraps using iron and pressing surface. (Note: You will need approximately 45 circles of each size to cover front of pillow.) Trace circles onto fused-fabric scraps using fabric marking pen; cut out. Trace three 3” circles onto wool felt scraps; cut out.
Layer fused-fabric circles on wool felt and fabric circles; fuse together using iron. Pressing cloth or wax paper can be used between the layers.
For best variety, vary sizes of circles layered together. Use sewing machine and black thread to freeform sew around edges of circles.Thread sewing needle with black thread. Insert needle through back of circle and through button hole; pull through to front of circle to attach button on center of layered circle. With needle still on circle, place circle on wool felt rectangle; insert needle through other button hole and pull thread through wool felt rectangle to attach circle on pillow front. Secure button/layered circle on pillow; knot and clip thread ends. Repeat process until all circles have been attached onto front of pillow. (Note: Make sure to leave approximately 2” on edges of pillow front so sewing machine needle does not hit buttons when sewing rectangles together.)
Position wool felt rectangles together with right sides facing. Machine-sew right, top, and left sides together using 1/2” seam allowance, leaving bottom side open for turning.
Press seams open. Turn right side out. Insert pillow form. Whipstitch bottom opening closed using needle and thread.
Leather & button pillow – Fringed leather circles create a bright earth tone palette of colored flowers on this plain muslin fabric. Embellish with assorted odds and ends buttons for a multi-layered, textural accent. Use any color combination
Materials for button pillow:
- Muslin fabric, 1/2 yard
- Eco-Craft Eco-Friendly Fiberfill
- Leather scraps from a furniture store or Tandy Leather Factory Odd Lot Sides Assorted Colors Leather (9830-70)
- Assorted tan buttons, 16
- Sewing machine and thread
- Sizzix Big Shot Die-Cutting System and Bigz 3-D Fringed Flower Die
- Beacon Adhesives Quick Grip Glue
Basic Supplies for button pillow:
- scissors, ruler, pencil, straight pins, sewing needle
Directions for button pillow:
Cut muslin fabric into two 14-1/2”x14-1/2” squares. Pin squares, with right sides together, along three sides, leaving one side open for stuffing.
Use 1/4” seam allowance to sew squares together using sewing machine, stopping 1/4” away from corner. If your sewing machine has a needle down function, use it to pivot pillow cover 90˚. If your sewing machine does not have a needle down function, carefully pivot pillow cover without pulling too much thread from bobbin or needle.
Trim off excess bulk in corners. Turn right side out and stuff with fiberfill. Hand sew opening closed or use sewing machine to finish open edge.
Position leather on die cut machine. Die cut 16 flowers from various colors of leather in small, medium, and large shapes following manufacturer’s instructions. Randomly mix and match small, medium, and large flower shapes in different colors together. Apply glue between flower layers; press together to adhere. Let dry.
Use needle and thread to attach button onto center of each flower.
Use pencil and ruler to mark placement of flowers on pillow front. Use needle and thread to attach flowers onto pillow front by sewing bottom layers onto pillow. Knot and clip thread ends.
A watercolor succulent makes easy and attractive wall art for your home. You don’t have to spend a lot of money to have cool decorations. The frame was purchased in a 3 pack for half off from a crafts store and watercolor paper and watercolor pencils are not expensive either. I have used the same set of watercolor pencils for 12 years. It is almost time for a few new ones. I have my favorite colors and they are getting tiny.
The most expensive item I used in making the piece was a new paint pen for me. A friend brought over her Posca Pens and after using hers I had to purchase my own because they are AMAZING! I ordered mine off of Amazon. They work so well. I had no problem stopping and starting. Other paint pens don’t seem to work well after a few uses. Not with this pen and the white was really white and solid. I did not have to go over it multiple times for it to show up and now I want to purchase a full range of the pens.
Supplies to make the watercolor succulent wall art:
Instructions to make Watercolor Succulent:
- Lightly draw your shape in pencil. Use sharpened watercolor pencils or even pastel pencils to color in the shapes you have drawn
- Use a water pen or paint brush dipped in water to smooth out the pencil lines inside the shape. Start with a little water because too much and it will be uncontrollable.
- Once you have the piece colored in you can start adding the details. I started with the black and then added the white.
- Step back and look at the pice again and add more detail.
- If you think you need to add more watercolor or highlights you can do that when you use a paint pen and it generally will not change the color of the paint pen.
- Pick a frame, hang on your wall and enjoy!
Make urban-style garden art on the cheap. Add color to your garden even in the winter. Use found objects like abandoned roadside hub caps. The found pieces are given a makeover with spray paints and simple wooden shapes. Give your garden color all year round. Create a batch of forever flowers to celebrate Earth Day on April 22nd and all year long.
Materials & Basic supplies for hub cap flowers:
- Recycled automobile hub cap
- Wooden shapes, 1”: circles, rings
- Recycled wire clothing hangers
- Green duct tape
- Cable zip ties
- Bubble wrap
- Acrylic crystals, 14mm
- Hanger of choice
- Heavy-duty wire cutters
- Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Spray Paint: Pumpkin Orange, Blue Ocean Breeze, Gum Drop
- Beacon Adhesives Gem-Tac Permanent Adhesive
- Brown alchohol ink
- newspaper (to cover work surface)
Directions for hub cap flowers:
Thoroughly clean and dry hub cap. Position hub cap flat on covered work surface. Adhere wooden shapes on center of hub cap. Attach cable ties around outside edges of hub cap.
In well-ventilated area, spray center of hub cap Pumpkin Orange or Blue Ocean Breeze. Spray outer portion of hub cap Gum Drop or Pumpkin Orange. Apply several coats as desired, letting paint dry between coats.
With pliers, un-twist tops of two wire hangers; straighten hangers. Use wire cutters to cut 14” lengths from hanger (for leaves). Use pliers to shape wire lengths into ovals for leaves. Position other long wire length on work surface (for stem).
Cut bubble wrap into long 2”-wide strips. Starting 3” from top of stem, wrap strips around wire hanger and wire leaves. Beginning at top of stem, wrap green duct tape around bubble wrap. Wrap green duct tape around leaves, permanently attaching leaves to stem.
Adhere crystals on flower center using glue. Let dry.
Use pliers to bend 3” of top of stem around base of hub cap, attaching stem to flower. Attach hanger of choice on back of flower.
Welcome to my craft room. Some days I call it my studio, and other days I refer to it as my crap hole of creativity. The first picture is of what it looked like before I got my mits on it. It was absolutely beautiful. It was a dream walk in closet for most people. (I am not most people) The dressing room had ample storage and two full length mirrors, it was by most peoples standards a dream feature to have off a master bedroom. However I would never in a million years have enough clothes to fill the space. Now if we are talking crafting and sewing supplies we are having a whole different conversation on the need for storage and space. I really wanted to have a space where I could shut the door when it became a disaster. (which is most of the time) My house is always clean but my creative space rarely is. Thus, my desire for a door.
I did the unthinkable to most people and I knocked out the center set of closets. GASP!!! the horror.
Hardwood floors were added so that it would be easy to keep clean and it would match my master bedroom. I left the vintage wallpaper up because it is neutral and really cool. (you can see it better in the picture below) Plus the thought of removing wallpaper gives me a headache. I hope to add a cool light fixture in the ceiling but for now cheap strip lights do the trick. Decorations and a rug are desperately needed because the space is soooo white! There is an echo when the doors are closed and no stuffs on the floor.
My paint storage is in need of a few more tiers. I need to get my neutrals on there. It is made with a $3 towel bar (affiliate link) and wood trim that is painted white. You could paint it the same color as your wall or make a bold statement and paint it a bright accent color.
I also have a slight addiction to buttons and embellishments. The little jars are from Ikea and I am not sure what I would do if they discontinued them. My eventual goal is to get my beading supplies into them too. Yes, I am a beader. There are only a few mediums that I have not tried and liked. I do not knit or crochet. Yarn is not my thing unless I am weaving.
Pens, colored pencils and markers are something I use on a regular basis and like to have them handy. Spending money on cool storage is not my idea of fun. These are giant tin cans from my daughters preschool. I like them because they were free and I can move them around.
So now that you have seen my photo ready pictures I thought I should let you in on my reality. Keeping it real is very important to me. This is the reality of what my room looks like after a deadline. I am pretty much always on a deadline or have 5 projects going at once. I would love some suggestion on where to add color to the room. Right now it is very very white.
I hope you have enjoyed seeing the inside where I create and have some suggestions for where I should add color.
If you would like to see other craft room that are pretty and have fantastic ideas for storage check out this round up of ideas hosted by Angie of the Country Chic Cottage.